A buyer's guide and general discussion of
Mechanical Keyboards
Info
General information about the core aspects of mechanical keyboards.
Keyboard Layouts:
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100%: This is the fullsize/standard keyboard layout - physical function keys, nav cluster, and number pad
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80%: Aka Tenkeyless (TKL) - function keys and nav cluster, number pad has been excluded.
75%: Function keys are still present and the nav cluster has been shifted into some of the space the alphanumeric keys use - usually reduced to just Pg up/down delete and home (this varies). Number pad is excluded.
65%: Nav cluster is shifted into alphanumerics similar to 75%. Physical function keys are excluded and exist in software layers accessible by the function (fn) key. Number pad is excluded.
60%: Alphanumerics only. Physical function keys and nav cluster excluded and exist in software layers accessible through the function (fn) key. Number pad is excluded.
40%: Alpha keys and modifier keys (shift, alt, tab, etc.). Numerics, function keys, nav cluster exist in software layers accessible through the function (fn) key
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Split: Keyboard is physically split into two halves to allow for better ergonomics - the boards can oftentimes be curved/angled for natural wrist alignment.
Ortholinear: Keys are aligned vertically and horizontally, usually reserved to smaller percent board layouts.
Switch Type:
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Linear: Switch actuates in a smooth motion, the only resistance is the spring. Offers the smoothest typing experience due to less features to add friction.
These are generally color coded as red and black, black being a stiffer spring.
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Tactile: Switch has a feature, usually a bump, that physically resists the downward motion of the stem and this translates into a bump/tactile feeling in your fingers.
Generally color coded as brown and clear with clear having a stiffer spring.
Clicky: Clicky switches can be linear or tactile switches that then include an additional piece such as a jacket on the stem or metal spring arm that creates a click sound when typing. Offers the most audible typing experience though many clicky switches are not known for having a clean sound.
Generally color coded as blue and green with green having a stiffer spring.
Switch Style:
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MX: Most common switch, characterized by the plus shaped stem, popularized by Cherry’s MX line of switches
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Matias/ALPS: Mechanically similar to cherry though far less popular and characterized by a rectangular stem and housing.
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Topre/electro-capacitive: These are like a refined rubber dome with an additional spring and circular stem and have a different feel than true mechanical switches. Largely reserved to Torpe, Realforce, and Leopold brand keyboards.
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Kailh Choc low profile: low profile mechanical switch similar in mechanism to MX style switches however less key travel and a different, socket shaped stem.
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Cherry MX Low Profile: Another low profile switch mimicking a similar mechanism to MX switches and maintaining the same plus shaped stem and only a slight reduction in travel distance.
Switch Mount:
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PCB Mount: Also known a 5 pin switches, these switches have plastic prongs at the bottom of switch that align with holes in the PCB to allow the switch to further stabilize itself. If the PCB is doesn't have these holes you'll either need plate mount switches or to clip the pins off before mounting.
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Plate Mount: Also known as 3 pin switches, these switches are only able to be used on a board that has a plate that the switches fit into (most boards feature a plate of some type for switch mounting). Plate mount switches are difficult to use in PCB mount form as they lack the additional pins to support the switch leading to wobble and possible damage to the switch or PCB.
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Spring Weight:
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All switch types have a wide range of weight/spring rate. The amount of pressure or weight that has to be applied to the spring to depress it, and how that spring weight increases as you reach the point of switch actuation. Measured in grams with most switches falling within a 50-80 gram range.
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Lubing:
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Applying a lubricant to the internals of mechanical switches results in not just a smoother typing experience but also some dampening affects that change acoustics and switch feel.
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Linear switches: benefit the most from this as you can use thicker lubricants for the smoothest experience.
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Tactile switches: Can benefit from lubing but thinner lube has to be used to avoid ruining the tactile bump
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Clicky switches: Don't lube clicky switches, it can ruin the click mechanism.
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How to:
Taeha Types thin lube tutorial
Friction points of the switch
Keycap Profile:
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Cherry: This is the profile that comes from using cherry molds and are largely exclusive to GMK and a few other manufacturers. Mild sculpting between each row.
OEM: Essentially slightly taller Cherry profile. This is the most common profile you will find on most prebuilt boards and cheaper keycap sets. More aggressive sculpting between each row due to extra keycap height.
SA: Taller and more rounded compared to Cherry and OEM. This has the most aggressive sculpting and is meant to emulate typewriter keyboard sculpting.
MDA: Shorter and slightly squarer SA with similarly aggressive sculpting.
XDA: Tall dish like keycaps with no sculpting - each row keycap is at the same height and angle.
DSA: Similar to the XDA the DSA features no sculpting.
Keycap Material:
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ABS: The majority of keycaps are made of ABS plastic as it is cheaper to mold and easier to make doubleshot legends - the letter in the keycap is a separate piece of plastic. This allows for cleaner legends and use with RGB. ABS also wears in a manner that the surface of the keycap will become glossy, something some people don’t like.
PBT: Generally used to make denser/thicker keycap. PBT doesn’t work well with doubleshot and instead is more commonly dye-sublimated onto the keycaps which is less sharp than doubleshot.
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PBT is generally considered superior to ABS for it's durability (lack of shine) and density (deeper sound).
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Legends:
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Dye sublimation: The legends (lettering) are applied to the keycap through a dye process that stains the plastic. The quality of the process can impact the sharpness of the legend.
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Doubleshot: The keycap is actually comprised of two injections of plastic, the first being the cap itself with the second creating the legend. This allows for a sharper legend as well as more color combination options. Doubleshot is also necessary for shine-through keycaps where the legend is illuminated by the keyboard lighting.
Group buy:
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A group buy is where a manufacturer will announce a product is for sale for a period of time. This product will not have been manufactured yet and will require a minimum number of people to pre-purchase the product. Once that number is met or exceeded and the time-period expires, the manufacturer will produce the number of items purchased. This reduces cost by eliminating overhead making ideal for producing small batches of custom keyboards.
Group buys are often accompanied with long wait times and delays, expect to wait 6-12 months. group buys are cost effective for manufacturers allowing this hobby to have a constantly increasing number of unique keyboards in the ecosystem.
Where to find info on ongoing group buys.
Parts needed to build a keyboard:
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Case
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Pcb
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Switches
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Keycaps
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Cable
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Stabilizers
If the board isn’t hot-swappable you’ll also need the following:
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Soldering iron
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Solder pump
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Solder
Stabilizers:
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Snap-in: These stabilizers clip into holes in the PCB. They're the least durable as the clip is quite small and can be pulled out when removing tight keycaps
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Screw-in: Attach to the PCB by a small screw allowing a more snug fit and more durable.
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Plate-mount: Attach to the backplate of the keyboard.
Sizing: Most stabilizers are sized as 2u, 6/6.25u, and 7u. Most keyboards use 6u for the space and 2u for enter, both shifts, and backspace. Most boards will need 1x 6u and 4x 2u but make sure you count how many you'll need.
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Which should I get? Consider buying a set of stabilizers, included ones in custom kits are generally lower quality. Durock and GMK/Cherry are popular options. Most people go with screw in since they the most durable, check with the board/PCB manufacturer to confirm which stabilizers fit.
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Modifying: I recommend clipping, lubing, and taping your stabs to get the best experience.
Soldering:
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Most keyboards have the mechanical switches soldered to the PCB. If you're interested in building a keyboard or want to tinker on an existing board it's important to understand how to solder and de-solder mechanical switches.
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